Stage descriptions
Hanoi - Phetchaboon bicycle ride

 

Route:
Hanoi - Lao Cai (Vietnam), Dien Bien Phu - Sam Nua - Na Meun (Vietnam/Laos), Vientiane - Phetchaboon (Laos/Thailand).
(See Routes en stages for a map with the route)

From - To
Distance
(
in Km)

Height-
profile

Road
Stage description & details
Hanoi Airport
-
Hanoi Centre
40
Flat

(No profile available)
Asphalt
Turn left when you exit the airport grounds and follow the signs Hanoi 32 km. When you reach the bridge over the Red River just continue although the traffic signs tell you not to. At the fly over round the roundabout for three-quarters and head for Hanoi Centre. After 200-300 meters at V-crossing, take the left fork and then straight on all the way into the centre of Hanoi.
Hanoi
-
Phu Tho
96
Asphalt
South of Huan Kiem lake follow the streets Huang Khay and later Phu Nguyen Thai Hoc westward towards Kim Ma bus station and further out of town. However Phu Nguyen Thai Hoc is a one way street going eastbound, therefore you have to find a parallel road Nguyen Khuyen and later Pho Cat Linh were you can go westward. From Trinh Hoai Duc onwards Phu Nguyen Thai Hoc stops to be a one way street that you can follow. When you reach a fly over you will reach the outskirts of hanoi. Just continue straight on (westwards). Follow the whole day National Road no 32. At the end of the day 11 kilometers before Phu Tho you will get the chance to cross the red river (here is also a sign with Viet Tri 25 km), You better turn left along the banks of the red river. This is a beautiful 11 km stretch before you reach a foot/bicycle ferry across the red river and into Pho Tho.
There are at least 2 hotels in Phu Tho. Near the post office but on the other side of the street. They are located next to each other.
Phu Tho
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Yen Bai
88
Flat/
rolling

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Asphalt
Leave Pho to in the direction of the railway station. After you leave Pho Tho (it is a larger city then you think) you can choose either National Road No 2 or the small roads between the Red River and National Road No 2. The locals will always try to get you to National Road No 2 as they did with us after we followed the small road for about 30 km. On Highway 2 turn left at Doan Huan, later again a left turn at Yen Bin.
There is a very good hotel opposite the railway station.
Yen Bai
-
Bao Ha
93
Rolling/
unpaved

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Asphalt
/
Unsealed
Go South towards the Red River. Before you actually cross the Red River turn right. You will cross the railway tracks many times. After 52 kilometers you will reach Trai Hut. The road turns into a small track and here you have to cross the Red River by boat. On the other side of the river you will have to follow a small track in North West direction along the Red River. When you reach National Road 279 turn right and take the ferry into Bao Ha (beginning 2005 there was a bridge under construction).
There is near the railway station. When we arrived it was booked full. We stayed at a home of people that have a small shop opposite the local school.
Bao Ha
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Lao Cai
98
Mountainious/
Flat

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Asphalt
Northbound towards the railway station. Cross the railroad tracks near the market. On to National Road No 279, approx. 10 km up until 650 meters and then downhill until you reach the crossing with National Road 70 at Bao Yen. Turn left at this crossing. Then it is another 75 kilometers towards Lao Cai. Just outside Bao Yen you will get another steep climb. The remainder of the ride it is downhill and flat. At T-crossing approx. 9 km before Lao Cai turn left.
It is also possible to take the road South of the Red River. This way is shorter but unpaved. The choice is yours.
Lao Cai is the startingpoint for Sapa (the touristspot in the region), so there are lots of hotels available.
Lao Cai
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Dien Bien Phu
-
-
Asphalt
- We did this strech by bus. For possible routes and stages use e.g. the Cycling Vietnam, Laos & Cambodia guide of Lonely Planet.

Dien Bien Phu
-
Huoi Puoc vv

(Vietnamese-Laotiaanse grens)

40

Mountainious/
Flat

Look here

Asphalt To check out if the border between Vietnam and Laos was open as internet told us we cycled to the border. A nice ride for a restday because it was not open yet (beginning 2005). In Dien Bien Phu at the big roundabout turn right coming from the bus station. The first 20 km are flat. Then up all the way up to the border. Without luggage it was already a tough ride. When you ride this with luggage take a ride on one of trucks shuttling between Dien Bien Phu and a stone quarry halfway up the mountain. You probably will need this option to speed up because after the paperwork at the border you need to climb another 1000 meter mountain (according to the map) until you reach Muang Khua where you probably can find a place to sleep.
Dien Bien Phu
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Tuan Giao
80

Mountainious/
Flat

Look here

Asphalt
In Dien Bien Phu at the big roundabout turn left coming from the bus station. Tuan Giao is shown on the signs even before you will leave Dien Bien Phu. Follow national Road No 42 the whole day. It is a good sealed road with relative light traffic for a road that is the main connection with Hanoi.
When you drop into Tuan Giao (the last few kilometres are downhill) go straight on at T-junction. You can find the Hotel approx. 100 meters further on your right hand side.
Tuan Giao
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Son La
84

Mountainious/
Flat

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Asphalt
At the hotel turn left back to the T-junction. At the T-junction follow the road towards Hanoi (National Road No 6). First some kilometers you can get into shape but after that it is up, up , up all the way towards the Pha Din Pass. After this pass it is relative flat on a good, still rather quiet road. Just before Son La you will have to climbs some steeps hills.
There are quite a lot of hotels in Son La. So you have the opportunity to choose a good one and bargain for a reasonable price. In Tuan Chau after approx. 55 kilometers there is a guesthouse also although we did checked it out.
Son La
-
Moc Chau
116

Mountainious/
Flat

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Asphalt

Another day on National Road No 6 in the direction of Hanoi. The road will get more and more traffic when you are getting closer towards Hanoi. After 116. Kilometer you will get in Moc Chau. Look at the profile to see the difficult parts of the day,.
In Moc Chau turn right at the T-junction with the post office. (comming from Son La). The hotel is after 100 meter on your right. In Hat Lot and Yen Chau at resp. 34 and 65 kilometer from Son La there are also hotels/guesthouses to lay your head. But also these we did not check out ourselves.

Moc Chau
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Mai Chau
63

 

Mountainious

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Asphalt
Just follow National Road No 6 in the direction of Hanoi again. This strech runs over a new road that is situated more to the South than the old National Road No 6. The consequence is that Mai Chau is 10 km less far then when you follow the old route. The day starts with a mountain, while the old road was relative flat. After you reach the top it is a long descend all the way to Mai Chau. The first part of the descend runs through a strech of beautiful jungle (although the questions is how long it will last until the trees are cut down). The second part is a flying descend into Mai Chai over a broad good road making it possible to reach speeds of over 70 km/h. Just before you enter Mai Chau go straight on National Road No 15 at the T-juntion (the left fork will bring you to Hanoi).
In Mai Chai there is a hotel on your right hand side, just before the bridge near the market and the football field. At the end of the village there is also a hotel. It was being refurbished when we were there beginning 2005 (from the looks it will be turned into an up-market place). It is also possible to sleep in home stays. Just ask around, the people will be glad to help you.
Mai Chau
-
Sam Nua
92

 

Flat/
rolling/
unpaved/
Mountainious

Look here

Asphalt
/
Unsealed

Follow National Road No 15 Southbound until you reach Quan Hao after some 40 kilometer. Turn right over the bridge on to a good sealed road along the Luông river (always on your right hand). At 58 kilometers there is a bridge over the Luông in the direction of Muang Lat. Just go straight on and do not cross the bridge. You will get on a unsealed path of 17 kilometer length that will bring you to National Road 217. On NR 217 turn right, from here it is 31 kilometer until you reach Na Meo and the border. From the border it is another 89 kilometer unil you reach Sam Nua.
On the Lao side of the border it is possible to sleep at the home of people. On the Vietnamese side they were building offices and a hotel. The expectation of the border police was that all buildings were finished around halfway 2005.
Sam Nua has a large number of guesthouses.

Sam Nua
-
Viang Sai vv
62

Mountainious/
rolling

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Asphalt

Comming from Sam Nua follow National Road 6 in the direction of the Vietnamese border (Viang Sai is already on the km-markers). After you asceneded and descended the mountain turn right at the T-junction where the toll-post is situated.
The main attraction are the caves where the Prathet Lao cadres hve hided during the 1960 and 1970's. You can go to Viang Sai and back in an afternoon (Kees did it during our rest day).

Viang Sai has a number of guesthouses, just look aroud for the signs on the houses.

Sam Nua
-
Na Meun
99

Mountainious

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Asphalt

In Sam Nua at the round about (near the busstation) go South towards Vientiane on National Road No 6. Follow this road al the way to Pha Lao (Phao Lao is shown already on the first kilometers mark so you can count down all the way). At the T-junction (or Sam-Jeeg) at Phu Lao turn left. It is 7 kilometer downhill until you reach Na Meun.
Na Meun has one guesthouse. It is the second house left when you are coming down from Phu Lao (so before you reach the actual village of Na Meun).

Na Meun
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Vientiane
-
-
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- We did this strech by bus.
Vientiane
-
Nong Khai
32
Flat

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Asphalt

Follow Thanon Setthathirat in South/East direction, parallel to the Mekong river. At the T-junction with a clock in the middle of the road go left (National Road No 2). Keep going straight on until you reach the borderpost with Thailand. This post is on your left hand side (from the direction of Vientiane) just before where the Friendship Bridge crosses over the road.
For the Buddha Park cycle under the bridge and just follow the road. The park is after some 5 kilometer on your right hand side and on the bank of the Mekong River.
When you want to cross into Thailand, turn left at the borderpost. After you have done the formalities just cycle into Thailand. In 2003 that was not possible, you just had to put your bicycle into a van together with the pedestrians but they changed the rules. When you enter Thailand. Go straight and then left. You will find the railway station on 1 km from the border. After you cross the tracks turn right to get to the railway station. When you want to go to Nong Khai go straight and after a few kilometers turn left into the town centre as indicated on the signs.
Nong Kai has a large number of guesthouses and hotels. Just pick a nice one on the bank of the Mekong river.

Nong Khai
-
Sang Khom
90

Flat/
rolling

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Asphalt
Follow the road on the bank of the Mekong river, keep the river on your right hand. Go under the Friendshipbridge and continue all the way to Tha Bo. In Tha Bo follow look for a unsealed sand road along the Mekong river. At a park with shrubs formed in the shape of animals you will have to go on the sealed road. Turn right in the direction of Si Chiang Mai. After Si Chiang Mai follow National Road No 211 all the way to Chiang Khan (the finishing place of the next etappe)). NR 211 is a beautiful 'scenic route' with light traffic.
In Tha Bo, Si Chiang Mai and Sang Khom there are several hotels and guesthouses.
Sang Khom
-
Chiang Khan
107

Flat/
rolling

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Asphalt
Follow National Road No 211 westward. You will have the Mekong on your right hand almost all the way.
In Pak Chom and Chiang Khan you can find several hotels and guesthouses.
Chiang Khan
-
Dan Sai
124

Rolling/
flat

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Asphalt
Just continue in Westward direction. After approx. 10 kilometer the Mekong will go to the North. From now on you follow the river Huang (National Road No 2195). When you reach a crossing in the middle of nowhere (near Ban Nong Pheu) go left. Follow the road all the way to Dan Sai. You will go through the villages Ban Pak Huay, Ban A Hi and Ban Pak Man on your way to Dan Sai.
After approx. 60 kilometer betweeen Ban Pak Huay and Ban A Hii you will find another borderpostr between Thailand and Laos (just like its big brother between Nong Khai and Vientiane it is called the Friendshipbridge). On the T-junction with the border there is an enormous restaurant with delicious food. Near the bridge that forms the border there is a large border market with numerous stall including food stalls.
Ban Pak Hua has a guesthouse near the crossing of National Road 2195 and National Road 2115.
Dan Sai has one "hotel". It is a couple of motel style rooms next to each other. Coming from Pak Man cros the bridge in Dan Sai centrum. Cycle another 100 meters until you reach the T-junction. The hotel is at the T-junction on your left hand side behind the buildings.
Dan Sai
-
Phetchaboon
121

Mountainious/
flat

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Asphalt

In Dan Sai go into the direction of Lom Sak/Lom Kao/Phetchaboon (National Road No 203) at the T-junction Dan Sai "hotel" is on. After Lom Kao (on road 203 to Lom Sak) turn right as soon Phetchaboon appears on the roadsigns (straight on to Lom Sak is also possible but you will find much more traffic on the road). Just cycle on, you will cross Highway 12 and also Highway/National Road 21 towards Phetchaboon. You can turn right on NR 21. But also cross it, go towards Phetchaboon Airport and then onto road 2402 towards Phetchaboon (road 2402 runs parallel NR 21).
Lom Sak (44 km before Phetchaboon) and Phetchaboon both have a number of hotels. On route 203 approx. 200 meters before you reach Lom Sak you will find the Nakorn Inn hotel on your right hand side. In Lom Sak centrum you will also find some hotels.
In Phetchaboon on National Road 21, you will find the Burapa Hotel and Samet Hill hotel. Comming from Lom Sak the Burapa Hotel is on the first T-junction when you enter town (on your left hand). Samet Hill is some 3 kilometers out of town on Highway 21 on your right hand. Phetchaboon does not have a guesthouse.

Phetchaboon
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Bangkok
-
-
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Take the bus from Phetchaboon to Mo Chit Mai bus station in Bangkok. You can out your bicycle on the bus. However, sometimes you will have to wait until there is space in the luggage compartment. There are 2 buscompagnies in Phetchaboon; Phet-tour and Siam-tour that use different bus stops.

 

Last update 20 February 2005