Day 1, Friday 24 December;

Today is the day !! After weeks of preparations we pack our bicycles and make sure our luggage is under the allowed 20 kilogram. After that we head off to Schiphol or Amsterdam Airport. Big surprise is that at the check in our bicycles are waved through so Marcel concludes that his attempt to save weight was a waste of energy and that now he can buy enough tobacco to last the whole trip. The next 10 hours flight go quick because it is one with good food, good sleep, good movies and a good book so we reach our destination Bangkok before we know it.

Day 2, Saturday 25 December;

When we arrive at Don Muang Airport we rush through the passport control, pick up our bicycles from the luggage belt and head off to see Kees and Veow who would meet us at in the arrival hall. But they are nowhere to be seen. Because or connecting flight to Hanoi is leaving soon we decide to go to the departure hall. There they show up after a half hour. They were waiting in arrival hall 1 in stead of 2. ..... Luckily a lot of people have seen the big bicycles boxes so they have pointed them in the right direction. To our surprise checking in does not go as smoothly as in Amsterdam. When we show up they start nagging about the weight of the bicycle boxes even before they are being weighed. Something we did not expect because previous flights with Thai Air always went smooth as silk in this respect. But thanks to the magical foot of Jeroen all bicycles boxes are exactly 22 kilos on the scale.
The flight to Hanoi is also an relaxing one and in Hanoi formalities go swift. Outside the arrival hall we assemble our bicycles. It is striking that there is nobody to be seen except some airport personnel asking for the cardboard boxes. This is quit opposite our experience from our Kunming trip in 2001. Then there were lots and lots of people around looking how we assemble the bikes and giving us advise. Soon all bicycles are ready. Then the most difficult part; making a test ride. This is so difficult because as soon as we mount our bicycles a couple of policemen start blowing there whistles and make gestures that have to tell us it that cycling is not allowed within the airport perimeters. So we double check all shrews and bolts, jump on our bicycles and head for the Hanoi center not taking any notion of the noisy policemen. But before taking off we put Veow and Kitty in a taxi and make the appointment that we will see each other..... That is the problem, where do you meet each other in a city you have never been before ? The solution is to meet in front of the St. Joseph Cathedral. With no doubt a city highlight with a tower that can be seen throughout the city and located on a central place like the church in Ho Chi Minh city.

The bicycle ride to Hanoi is an easy one. The road leading to Hanoi is a busy, but luckily there is a bicycle lane along the side. But riding on the bicycle lane means that you have to pass big groups of, also approaching, Vietnamese workers leaving their factories and groups of schoolchildren heading for home. When Jeroen was looking at one of the big billboards along to road he almost ran into a group of Vietnamese that had a lively conversation but also did not watch the road. A jell from Frank and Jeroen could just avoid a collision. An advantage was that Jeroen his jetlag was gone instantly.
At the first gas station we put some extra air in the tires and that is necessary because with 39 kilometers the ride is a little longer then we anticipated on. Yes 39 kilometers because we lost the way. In Hanoi St. Joseph Cathedral is nowhere to be seen due to the high-rise buildings and the one way streets that make it difficult to go into the direction we want to go. But the main reason of course is that you are asking for problems when you let small town boys like us lose in a city like Hanoi. After a few in vane attempts to find St. Joseph Cathedral we ran into a Japanese tourist who could point us the way to the Cathedral. When we finally arrived at the church Kitty is waiting for us. Veow told her to go to the church and keep an eye out for us. She installed herself in a pizza restaurant telling Kitty it would take us a few hours to get here so relaxing is the keyword and that is more easy in a restaurant then on the streets of Hanoi. According to Kitty it is 23 kilometers from the airport to the Cathedral while Jeroen his distance meter telling us it is 39 kilometers so we cycled an extra 16 km in Hanoi. Small town boys, no doubt !!

After the reunification we sit down to do something about our thirst and then book ourselves a hotel. After that it was time for some shopping. Veow in front and the others following her like small ducklings. First we looked for picture postcards (the first ever, must be the good influence of Veow and Kitty) and then for everybody a silk sleeping bag. But the sleeping bags are really cheap so a red light starts flashing in the head of Kees.. Back at the hotel it appears that they are made of satin and not silk. The usual tourist swindle, and so we found out that in Vietnam you really have to take care. Much more than in the other SE Asian countries we visited. But the mood is better after tonight's delicious diner and the knowledge then we can sleep in a real bed a not an airplane chair.

Everybody wakes up at the time of his/her choice. For Marcel, Jeroen, Veow and Kees that is 5 O'clock and for Kitty and Frank a little later. We might be mistaken but already at the first day this looks like a pattern that will not change during the rest of our trip.
First breakfast, then a sightseeing tour by bicycle around Hanoi. Because Veow does not have a bike she can choose the back seat of the bicycle she wants. Marcel is the lucky man. In Veow her eyes he is probably the one most likely one to survive Hanoi traffic. But traffic is not as hectic as expected. Yes it is busy with bicycles, motorcycles and cars but the trick it to cycle slowly and push steadily through at places where it is crowded like crossings and at traffic lights.
The result is a nice day in Hanoi. Taking a look at the most important markets, a few temples and most interesting of all just a ride along Hanoi's main streets. The only problem is that sometimes you have to keep your eyes on the road, while you want them scanning the area for beautiful sights.

Because Veow joins us we stay longer in Hanoi we original planned. So we decide to take a look at Halong Bay, one of the tourist attractions of Northern Vietnam. Yesterday evening on the way to the hotel we ordered a few take away lunches and what kind of a lunch. Three baguettes of over a meter long and also salad and French fries. A breakfast that takes a while to get through (until 6 O'clock in the evening).
Halong Bay it is, some 150 kilometer from Hanoi so not by bicycle but by bus. The bus arrives on time at the hotel and then we go to the point were all busses gather and tourists are exchanged. There we transfer into a bigger bus that joins the traffic jam of busses heading for Halong Bay. It is a tough trip for Kitty and Jeroen. They both have a chair above the wheels of the bus so they are launched whenever the bus runs into a bump. The result is a black and blue bottom, lets hope it is not bothering them anymore when we hit the road the day after tomorrow.
The sights along the road to Halong Bay are not beautiful at all. We ride through a delta flat as a pancake without any idyllic views or it must be all those factories (being build or existing) along the road. What will this country have an economic growth the next decade !
Halfway the bus stops and we are being unloaded at a tourist shopping center. Kitty did not notice it, she falls asleep as soon as we stop but the other shopping wonders (Jeroen and Veow) rush out the bus to take a look. After a few minutes they return empty handed. A tourist trap is their comment; to expensive and only rubbish.

After this stop the bus trip continues. However, is difficult to describe the surroundings because everybody falls asleep. At noon we arrive at Halong, we are kicked out of the bus with the message that lunch is ready. So time to get inside the restaurant. At the tables everybody talks about the tsunami that hit an area around the Indian Ocean. What exactly happened yesterday we did not know but it is clear it is a huge disaster. Everybody enjoys his /her diner except Marcel who refuses to eat but just enjoys a cola, a familiar sight the coming weeks.
After lunch it is time for the real thing: Halong Bay. So on to the harbor and on the boat. But not before Jeroen has purchased a handful old banknotes and 2 T-shirts from the vendors waiting for him. Then one hour on the boat, running in and out the cave, on the boat again and back to the bus. Halong Bay is a beautiful spot and for sure worthwhile the bus trip. The only setback is that it is a cold day with a nasty wind coming from the sea so behind the glass of the boat is the best spot on the boat to enjoy the view.

A beautiful day ! Not because of the weather (just as cold as yesterday) but because of Jeroen his birthday. Before the celebrations begin we first have to change money, reconfirm Veow her ticket and the most important visit the shoe shop where Jeroen forgot his bag yesterday. And ...Yes, the shop owners still have the bag of Jeroen. A great start for a birthday !
After that it is time to party. This means a very delicious French breakfast with a piece of cake for Jeroen and a Dutch birthday song as the finishing touch. Then off to the Mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh. With insight gained in the city plan on the biketrip the day before yesterday it is only a ride of a few minutes . We arrive 3 minutes after 11. It appears to be 3 minutes to late to see uncle Ho. So instead we take a stroll along the perimeter, visit to the one pillar pagoda and make a picture with the pile of stones that form the mausoleum.

After the setback at the mausoleum we drive around town and pay a visit to some other city highlights. At 5 O'clock everybody goes his/her own way because today is the last day in Hanoi and Veow is going back to Bangkok so we can give her all the presents to her to carry home. Marcel goes for a stroll with Veow (Gerda please do not spent so much money back in Holland, Marcel is doing it for you this trip and that is all because tonight he has fallen in the hands of a shopping wonder woman). Jeroen and Kees have an appointment at the internetcafé to work on this pages and Kitty and Frank head off for a foot massage to be in shape tomorrow, the first day on the road. Lets hope tomorrow the lazy sweat of these relaxed days in Hanoi does not get a grip on us.

Making a zigzag tour around Hanoi we try to get into the direction that we have to go. With our fingers crossed and sometimes in our ears (what a traffic during rush hour and what can they ring those bells and honk those horns) we manage to get out of town. As we reach the same street that we followed from the airport we can afford to look around more and start to enjoy the ride and put the turbo on to try to catch up with the original schedule for today (that we did not have). The temperature is just plain cold so cycling fast is the only way to stay warm. Outside Hanoi the street soon turns into a dust bowl so after a few hours we welcome the cola stop to smooth the throat. When we sit down Marcel asks Kitty of she did see those delicious dogs being roasted on the sidewalk. Kitty tells us she is happy she missed it because they probably look like Moos -the lovely dog of her sister Yvonne-. Jeroen also missed the dogs but only because it is a pity he could not make a picture of this typical Vietnamese delicacy.
After the stop we continue with legs that tell us that we still have to get into shape. Making cycling difficult is that the surroundings between Hanoi and Phu Tho are not that great so nothing to distract your attention from biking (or is it the lack of sunshine that makes everything look gray ?). Only 10 kilometers before Pho Tho the view along the Red River is really nice
The get to Phu Tho the Red River has to be crossed. This means a fierce negotiation battle with the lady of the ferry. She almost start hitting Jeroen because his front tire touches a women softly during the rocky passage of the Red River. Very hot hearted people those Vietnamese.
In Pho Tho we have to find a place to sleep. However, the question is how do you make people understand were you want to go if only can count to 10 in Vietnamese. The old trick with the language section of our guide book offers some help and after that we know the proper intonation of Hotel in Vietnamese. We repeat it a few times and result is a set of directions that bring us to a hotel near the post office. Just in time because it is already getting dark. After the shower we walk around town to try to get something to eat but it appears that we are in the wrong part of town because no restaurant is to be seen, So after a few cups of coffee and tea and a load of cookies we return to the hotel to go to bed. The result of today tired legs due to the 96 kilometers on our bikes. Tomorrow we wake up at 6 to hit the road to Yen Bai.

Pho Tho - Yen Bai. (88 kilometer)

Together with Kitty he did not rule out the fact that maybe we ended up at a local brothel. But they could not find anything that pointed in that direction (except for the red light in the room of course). The others also noticed the red light but never made the connection with a brothel probably because they could not care less after the first but tiresome day on the road. No light in the morning so we have to dress with the light of our flashlights. Then next alarming fact; it is raining. A light but steady rain and this is not the weather we counted on. We want sun, cycling in the rain is something we can do in Holland almost everyday. It is time to make a change of plans: we will go to Yen Bai by bus. When we arrive at the bus stop we head for the bus with a Yen Bai sign behind the window. But when we approach the driver quickly rushes off without us. So today cycling is the only alternative.
The first 8 kilometers out of Pho Tho we are followed by a Vietnamese on a motorcycle who insist on showing us the way. First he is riding next to us but soon he grabs the bar-ends of Kees his steer if we want to go into the wrong direction at least according to him. After a short meeting we decide to take another route and not the direction he wants us to go. This causes the expected row not because we take the wrong way but because he sees that he can not cash the price tag he has in mind for his advise.
And it is a good choice over small roads in an undulating landscape. It is attractive to cycle through only problem is that due to the rain we have to keep our eyes on the road and that we are also to cold to enjoy the view. Especially when we cycle on a stretch of unsealed road and as an extra present we also turn instantly red.
Although it is not the plan we end up at National Road no 2 in the afternoon. Although traffic it not as busy as expected the surroundings in the afternoon are not that scenic anymore. The good thing however is that the rain stops. So time to put dry clothes on in order to try to stay warm because temperatures are still way below the temperatures we expected.

After 88 kilometers we arrive in Yen Bai and opt for a beautiful lilac hotel opposite the train station. The only problem is that they do not allow us in before we clean ourselves a bit up. So a garden hose is arranged and the bicycles, bags are washed clean. One of the neighbors brings a tub and soon al our jackets, socks, long pants and shoes are being washed for us. A big group of people gathers around us and we all have a lot of fun. As we are standing outside the people tell the lady who helps us washing our stuff that she has to ask some money. After some discussion they set the fee at one dollar. When everything is clean we thank the lady and offer her a few dollars (the cleaning took over one hour) she tells us that one dollar is enough. We thank her again for the offered help and rush to our rooms for a hot shower.

After a visit to the post office to get the internet pages up-to-date it is time to get something to eat in the best restaurant in town according to the girl in the hotel lobby. Marcel is know to be a criticaster of the local cuisine and tonight Kitty appears to turn into also in one looking at the expression on her face when we enter the restaurant and she looks at the dishes offered. A complete duck in a pot of what looks like water, a small calf also in a pot. The expression (see picture above) turns from surprise into horror when we ask what kind of meat they have on the barbecued sticks and the people in the kitchen all answer Miauw. So tonight no diner for Kitty.
But Frank, Jeroen and of course Kees had a delicious diner. Fish, duck (with more bones then meat), fried spawn and some unknown but delicious dishes. Some rice and vegetables for the finishing touch. After diner back to the hotel in a hurry to go to bed and try to get warm because everybody is stone cold.
In the middle of the night Kitty wakes up because of the noise she hears. Frank tries to open the door of the bathroom but without success. So Kitty jumps out of bed and tries to help him pulling the whole knob off. Taking notice of this setback they decide to look for another toilet in the corridor together. The reckon they can better go together because they both do not wear their glasses or contact lenses. So on to the toilet in the corridor and then back to the room. Frank opens the door and suddenly there sounds yell. It appears they have entered the room of somebody else who wakes up in panic. The quickly apologise and manage to find their own room and go to bed laughing. In the morning they tell Kees of their adventure. Kees, who slept in the same room, did not notice anything. Already after 2 days on the road he can sleep everywhere and probably also anytime without noticing anything !

Yen Bai - Bao Ha. (93 kilometer)

However, sometimes we go over the mountains and then the legs hurt no wonder because the signs along the road tell us that it are 10% climbs After a kilometer or 30 it is time for a break. Soon everybody in the village is gathered around us looking how tall we are, touch our legs and say that it must be very cold with cycling shorts on. We must agree with that statement. The local English teacher comes sitting next to us and tells this is the right way to Bao Ha. We have to cross the Red River at Tray Hut some 20 kilometer straight on. When we arrive there we find out that the road stops and that the only possibility is to cross the Red River by ferry and continue on a unsealed path. And that is also good cycling, it brings the adventures child up in us (at least in some of us). Especially Jeroen cycles through the numerous small streams as if they are not there. The consequence is, as you can see from the smile on his face on the picture below, that he lets the others know that cycling here is great.

Something Frank cannot say. He has problems following the others. After the nasty climbs up the karst hills this morning maneuvering the stones that line the small path makes him fall behind. Is it the diner of yesterday or the lack of training ? Who will tell. The only thing we can do is stop and relax and hope Frank can continue. The hour rest helps Frank to recuperate and although not as fresh as the others he goes on. He even manages to cross one of the streams without getting of his bike. On the other side everybody gives him a cheer for this achievement. But it turns out it is not a sign of will but he just missed to see the bamboo bridge along the side. After a few more streams we reach Bao Ha. At least the ferry that has to bring us to the other side of the river again. We ride on to the ferry and wait for the cars and truck to follow us. As soon as they all are maneuvered on to the ferry we depart.

Now we can look for a hotel to spend the night. Somebody we meet at the ferry can tell us that the local hotel is booked full. He brings us to the English teacher of the city and she tells us she maybe can help us. She arranges that we can sleep at the house of a family that night (after the papers are checked of course). Jeroen, Marcel and Kees get a room where they can sleep on the floor and Kitty and Frank get a room with a real bed. Frank immediately hits the deck because the ride of today has finished him off. The others have dinner with the family. A very good dish of rice and vegetables (for Marcel en Kitty) and some extra duck meat for Kees and Jeroen. After diner it is time to take a shower. Kees first and then Marcel. They tell the others there is no hot water. But when the lady of the house sees that Kitty wants to take a bath she brings her a kettle with hot water. Jeroen does not want to take a shower because he is already cold but when everybody goes to bed and Kitty tells Jeroen that there is some hot water left he decides to take a bath also.
So all to bed and Jeroen to the Bathroom. After half an hour Kitty wakes up because of some strange noises. It looks like somebody is still in the bathroom but by now everybody is already to bed is her first thought. Then a yell and she is sure. Somebody is locked up in the bathroom. She jumps out of her bed and goes to take a look. When she reaches the bathroom Jeroen his head is sticking out of the ventilation grating. He tells Kitty he is looked in after he closed the door. So if she can give him a knife or something sharp so he get out. After Kitty gets the requested item he is released quickly. When Jeroen wakes up Kees his reaction is twofold. First he asks why Jeroen had to lock the door, did he not learn enough of the story of Kitty and Frank this morning. Then he suggests Jeroen tells the owner of the house what has happened. Jeroen goes off to tell him. We are lucky the owner tells Jeroen he does not matter.

Bao Ha - Lao Cai (98 Kilometer)

Then next morning we rise early. Marcel, Kees and Jeroen are happy with this rhythm. On the concrete floor it got colder and colder and at sunrise they are cold to the bone and their arms and legs are very stiff. They can not wait to jump on their bicycles and warm themselves up. Before we head of we wish each other a happy new year. Before we go we ask our host what are the options for today. He shows us with gestures that we can take the long way by National Highway no. 70 or a shorter way on the other side of the Red River. More or less the road we did follow yesterday, probably unsealed. The decision is for Frank to make, because he is the one who had most problems yesterday. Frank takes "the long way home", so we head of. First a rather long climb and then a descent to Bao Yen that is situated along NR no 70. The descent was nice, long winding roads with a good overview. But as you can see on the picture the local people do not agree with that, why should you otherwise wear a crash helmet going downhill. The question that arises is should we have brought our bicycle helmets also.

At the crossing with NR 70 we push on. We have lost so much time climbing the first hill of the day that we cannot afford to wait. The National Road immediately starts to go uphill. Halfway up the next hill it is crystal clear we have a problem: we are already 5 hours on the road and with this speed we will not reach Lao CAI before the evening falls. Frank is falling behind constantly and we have to wait for him at shorter and shorter intervals, even when the road goes downhill. Then suddenly Kees and Marcel see a bus coming from behind. They jump of their bicycles and stop the bus, tell Frank to board the bus and put his bicycle on the roof. Kitty joins Frank because alone is just alone and together is more fun.
After this stop the three remaining cyclist continue. In order to catch up with the schedule the idea is to keep each other out of the wind that is blowing head on. So all three just a few minutes at the head of the group and then back to the wheel of the last person. In this style we cycle 32 kilometers in less then a hour, making us confident we will make it to Lao CAI on time. Then it is time for a more relaxing style leaving time to enjoy the area, make a few photostops and buy some drinks in restaurants along the road. So an ideal cycling day after all.
Some 9 kilometers before Lao CAI the road is under construction turning it into a dust bowl, consequence is that the speed drops below 10 km/h. We all agree Frank made the just decision going by bus.
Just before we enter Lao CAI we see diner is being served along the road. Kees wants to stop and let Jeroen and Marcel taste the dog shown in front of the local butcher. But they both protest saying they do not know if Kitty and Frank already have an eye on a good restaurant for this evening and it would be a pity if they have a full stomach full already. When the three gentlemen reach Lao CAI they first go to take a look at the border and then on to Kitty and Frank who already have booked a hotel. The good thing is that we can immediately take a shower to wash away the dust. After the shower it is time to take a look around town, work on the Internet pages and have diner. All of this in temperatures that are fit for an oldfasioned Dutch winter.

Day 10, Sunday 2 January;

We rise at the usual time and checking out is easy because this one time we do not have to wait until a staff member of the hotel is awake to give our passports back. The busstation is a few hundred meters from the hotel but we do not reach it. When we change some money with the neighbors they ask where we want to go today and as we tell them Dien Bien Phu the guy helping us runs outside to tell his friend who sells tickets on the bus to stop. So bicycles on the roof, bags in the bus and we on the bags. Kees, Marcel and Frank occupy the backseat. Kitty and Jeroen share a seat with a Vietnamese. The girl sitting next to Kitty is very happy with a strong but soft shoulder next to hear. As soon as the bus starts to ride she falls asleep and uses the shoulder of Kitty as the perfect pillow. And why not as the other option is a hard and also cold window.

We are lucky we paid when we got in, the men who is collecting the ticket fares and the passengers are in a constant quarrel about money. But we understand why as he also tries to charge us an extra 10 000 Dong for each bag. A typical Vietnamese trick (that we have never experienced in neighboring countries, but is standard here) that makes us tired. So we close our eyes and pretend we do not know what he wants. After a while the smartass goes to try his luck with another victim that results and another row.

At Sapa we ride through the fog and soon the fogs turns into rain. Now it is even cold in the bus, we consider ourselves lucky that we decided to go by bus. A whole day in these temperatures and rain: no not our idea of a holiday !
After a few hours it is feeding time for the driver and we can get out to stretch our legs. We have also time to look at the local hill tribe people of whom you can see many (with different style clothing) in the streets and on the market. When we ride off again the few hill tribe people that boarded the bus start to have problems. They get a plastic bag that the ticket collector throws out the bus when it is full. The windows have to stay close, so the terrible smell is trapped inside the bus. So time to open the window anyway.
Then the rain stops and the view starts to get better. We drive through a beautiful gorge that winds through the mountains and we wish we had not taken the bus but the bicycle. This feeling does not leave us the whole trip until we reach Dien Bien Phu. Especially when we see al those people in colorful clothes in the villages and along the road. Now we rush by them while when we would have done it by bike we would have had much more time to enjoy the views and of course the people. When we reach Dien Bien Phu and get out of the bus our fear has become reality: we are more tired and our legs hurt more then after a long day on our bicycles.

Restday in Dien Bien Phu. (73 Kilometer)

It is 35 kilometers to the border and the same distance back of course. An easy day you would say, not so far and no luggage to carry. The only problem is that the last 20 kilometers go straight up. The good thing is that the temperatures rise and that the sun is shining. For the first time we have a holiday feeling. Also the surroundings are very nice so we make a lot of stops to enjoy the view. But our luck ends when we reach the borderpost at the top of the mountain. The border is only open for Lao and Vietnamese and no westerners are allowed through. Although we had expected it, it would have been nice to cross here into Laos and leave the bad weather behind. Now we are going back in the direction of Hanoi and probably in the direction of bad weather. But it was a nice ride and good test to look of we still can climb mountains.

The remainder to the day we take it easy. We visit the Dien Bien Phu battle museum to look at the heroic deeds of the Vietnamese and the acts of barbarism of the French. It is nice to see that even the amour of the Vietnamese is still effected by this heroism after 50 years. It is still shine and in good shape while the armor of the French is dirty and rusty. After this tourist thing it is time for an ordenairy task: changing money. After two hours we manage to change money in a hotel. Our first option is to change at the official change office near the big roundabout in the center, but the three ladies there are having such a good conversation with each other that they tell us to go somewhere else. Something we do with joy, but it takes a while before we find a place where we can change. Then we pay a visit to the internetcafé to work on the pages and end this day with a simple but delicious diner.

Dien Bien Phu - Tuan Giao. (80 kilometer)

The other goes over National Road 279, sealed but more undulating. Because Frank is the weakest link this holiday he may choose which way we go. He decides to go to Tuan Giao. The first 30 kilometers go steadily up but Frank does not fall behind. The rest day of yesterday really pays of. Traffic is also not as heavy as we expect for the main connection between Hanoi and Dien Bien Phu. And before 7.30 we even do not see anybody. The Vietnamese in this area or really slow starters. After the climb it goes down. A long descent were we can reach high speeds. Down in the valley we take a break with a Red Bull for Kitty and a coke for the others. We have found a nice spot out of the wind but in the watery sunshine. But the good weather does not stay, when we get up to continue the sun is gone and it is instantly cold. We probably have to go to Laos for the sun this holiday or maybe even Thailand. The only way to stay warm is to put on more clothes and push the pedals a little harder. And because the wind is blowing straight in our faces we have it is a harsh ride but the good thing is that we warm up soon.
We arrive quite early in Tuan Giao. But our plan to work on the Internet site is blown to pieces when we find out there is no internet connection in town. So the other thing we can do is the wash. The roof is the best place in the wind and in the sun so after washing we sit down to enjoy the last bits of sunshine.
After this domestic task we head of to have diner. We saw a nice restaurant when we entered town. When we are inside we take a look at our Lonely Planet to find out what is the most fancy tourist restaurant in this roaring town. It appears that we hit the jackpot we are in the best restaurant according to the LP. To be honest the LP is right. A very good diner, the best Vietnamese food (no not the standard LP tourist dishes) we have eaten so far (later we found out it was by far the best restaurant we have eaten in Vietnam). Even the oranges we get after diner are delicious !

Tuan Giao - Son La. (84 kilometer)

After we have pampered our chains we take off. With our minds still on yesterdays delicious diner we are roughly awakened after 5 kilometers. The endless climb up to the Pa Din Pass starts. A mountain of Hors Category: up to 1400 meters in 15 kilometers. With yesterday in mind we had put on several layers of clothing but after 100 meters climbing we sweat already so apparently it is not such a good idea after all. So one by one we stop and the excess of clothes disappears in our bags before we move on in order to reach the top. The best way to describe the mountain is as "a huge nasty piece of rock". The climb is an ordeal for all of us and soon everybody struggles, and that for several hours. It is a pity there are not some many trucks around here you can get hold of to get a free lift up. But Kitty and Marcel ,who formed the rear today, manage to stop a truck and to confidence the driver they want a lift. The same recipe as in our previous adventures: off the bike, bags in the back, bike in the back and the quickly the bicyclist on top all of that. When the driver sees Frank and Jeroen he pulls to the side and they also disappear in the back. Kees is not aware of all this and manages to reach the top of the mountain (at least that is what he thinks). So when the truck passes by he refuses to join the others. He calls them whimps and tells them he will go on by bike. But that is easier said then done becuase he finds out it is another kilometers more to reach the top. There the others are awaiting him. We all mount our bikes again and enjoy the next kilometers downhill.
After the mountain it is a relative flat stage with only two harsh climbs at the end of the day. On the flat stretch Kees has the honors to cycle in front and keep the speed up a steady 36 km/hour. The others manage to stay in his wheel and out of the wind. The train moves smootly through the landscape for over an hour then Jeroen hits a rock resulting in an instant flat tire. So he gives a yell and everybody pulls to the side. The yell of Jeroen also alarmed the local people who all come to found out what is the noise all about. Soon it is crowded and everybody gives Jeroen advise how he should fix his tire. Jeroen is happy when the tire is fixed and we can move on. We pull the brakes at a nice and quiet spot to relax for a moment while Jeroen is still complaining that he can still hear the voices of the Vietnamese giving him instructions to fix his tire.
After this break Kees and Marcel fall behind when they decide to take it easy the last 20 kilometers to Son La. Enjoying the view, making some pictures and trying some of the fruits offered along the side of the road. When Marcel sees some peanuts being sold on the roadside he stops and sits down again. He puts one peanut in his mouth and pulls an ugly face; the peanuts are cooked and not fried. This is a recipe we are not used to and he decides that the deal is off. But we stay seated anyway, the local people talk a dialect that sounds a lot like Laotian so Kees is the one who likes to stay and chat a little. As a result Kitty, Frank and Jeroen who cycled on have to wait a long time before the other 2 show up.

Son La - Moc Chau (116 kilometer)

It is not only busy on the road itself but also in all buildings and building sites along the road. We recon that Son La boulevard can be seen from the moon if all the streetlights are installed that now still lay along the road. The stages of yesterday and the day before were very beautiful ones but today's ride is a boring one. All cities and villages we pass can be best described as dust boils where they break down the old to build the new. But we can't tell what are the new buildings and what arre the old ones because all buildings look the same. The surroundings are also not as fantastic as the previous days. Strengthed by the sights and the fact that we are quite early today we decided not to stop in Yen Chau but to ride another 55 kilometer and head for Moc Chau. One of the better decisions this holiday. The view improves, the temperature rises, moreover the kilometers go swiftly although we stop regular to relax and enjoy the view. We are not the only ones that enjoy the stops, also a Vietnamese carpenter who catches up with us and manages to stay in our wheel likes it when we stop. Time for some small talk and to share the refreshments we bring with us.
Before reaching Moc Chau a mountain has to be climbed and so the whole group is torn apart. The first one we have to leave behind is our friend the carpenter after that Frank and Kitty and when Marcel and Kees got hold of a truck also Jeroen fell behind.

In a with black and white Frisian cows dotted suburb of Moc Chau we meet again. In Moc Chau the daily fight to get a good and clean bed for a descent price starts again. This time more bargaining skill are required than on an ordinary day because their are not that many hotels in Moc Chau and the lady behind the desk is a real veteran in dealing with tourists. Finally Kees and Frank manage together to get a good deal but only after the lady had a slip of the tongue when she told us that today she has a lot more vacant rooms (probably like all other days). But time to unpack the bicycles into the hotel, to enjoy a hot shower and to take a look at the sights of Moc Chau city. There are not that much tourist spots but strolling along the streets and visit the local market is always fun. On the way to the market we have to raise our eyebrows when a teenage boy is kicked out on the street naked by his furious father. A strange event but that is probably because we are not local people but tourists.
After that it is time to go out and find a restaurant. We are lucky today. We find a very good restaurant run by a very nice family. We are invited to join the family for diner. Everybody agrees it is good food (and that really means something because Marcel normally eats like a mouse and Frank only deep fried eggs). Not only the food is nice also the company is good. Kitty has a nice conservation with the smallest daughter while Marcel has more eye for the oldest daughter especially when she shows a set of beautiful pictures showing her as a model.

Moc Chau - Mai Chau (116 kilometer)

When you think you have been in Vietnam long enough to have experienced all kinds of weather, hot and cold, dry and rain then you wake up and you can't see more then 10 meters in front of you because of the fog. As a result it is also very, very cold. So today another test in paradise.

Soon we do not see each other anymore we one by one disappear in the fog and higher and higher it goes all the way to the top of the mountain. And that top is further away then we expect. It appears that we are on a new part of the highway that runs parallel with the old road but closer to the Laotian border. Disadvantage is that the mountain that we have to climb today is higher then the LP route profile shows. Advantage is that it is approx. 10 less far and that the descent longer, on new broad street so we reach speeds of nearly 70 km/hour.
But first we have to climb the mountain and in the fog that is a rather boring event. Nothing to see only some cows and buffalos that we pass and of course the busses and trucks that pass by with deadrecking speeds and are constantly honking their horns.
As we reach the top we stop at what is a shop or maybe a café or what's in the name. At least they have hot tea and a DVD Karaoke player. The Venga boys are playing and we are asked to show or karaoke skills. Soon everybody is singing and swinging and that all before the clock reaches 10 O'clock. A sign for the man of the house to turn the volume up even more. When Marcel starts to complain that his ears start to beep we decide it is enough and time to hit the road again.

A little later we drive though jungle, also a sign that the road is brand-new because near old roads no trees can be seen because they are all cut down. When we take a break to enjoy the surroundings suddenly a Hmong family appears from the jungle with a couple of trees on their backs. These are the kind of meetings that make a bicycle holiday worthwhile. We talk a little with each other, give the man some cigarettes and we all move on. They go back to work and we head off for Mai Chau. The present is that in order to get there we do not have to use our legs anymore. It is downhill all the way and as said before with speeds of nearly 70 kilometer/hour we reach Mai Chau before we know it. The good thing is that the sun is back now we are out of the mountains and as soon as we reach Mai Chau we sit down in the sun trying to get warm.
In Mai Chau we have the whole afternoon to do something else then cycling so we stroll over the market, look at a local football match and sit down somewhere to have a drink. On the market we also look for some nice Vietnamese souvenirs but we do not succeed. The only thing that we like is a plastic clock of Uncle Ho with flashing lights around his head making him look like a saint. Problem is that the clock does not fit into our bags. We also pay a visit to the local internet café to work on these pages, but because it is to slow we only manage to answer some messages in the guestbook. After that we prepare for tomorrow; we have a good diner and go to bed early.

Mai Chau - Sam Nua in Laos (92 kilometer and also by truck)

Today we are awake before sunrise. How far the stage of today is is not know. The only thing that is clear is that it is monstrous distance to Na Meo at the Laotian border. The first 20 kilometers go slightly down along side the Song Ma river with legs that get into a good rhythm making us confident we will get far today. The next 20 kilometers are a little more difficult because short descends are followed by short steep climbs making us to step up the pedals and bite on our teeth to reach the summit. It takes a lot of strength to keep up the speed so we are happy when we reach Quan Hoa.
Here we have a break, although we do not have time to sit down we stop to choose between two possible routes. The longest one is straight on following highway 15 until Thouc and then highway 217 all the way to NA Meo. The shorter one is to cross the bridge here and follow the road along the Luong river. The local people tell us it is still some 25 kilometers to Thouc while they make gestures that shorter way is unsealed. Then a French cyclist shows up. He tells that it is 125 kilometers via Thouc and that there are no possibilities to sleep along the way (he slept in a tent but was rounded up by the local police who offered him a bed at the local police office, but we are not sure how they react when we show up with the 5 of us). So we decide to take the shortcut along the Luong river.
It is the most beautiful ride in Vietnam, first a stretch of 20 kilometers on a sealed road with wonderful views over the Luong River and through picturesque villages. After 58 kilometers we cross the river and head on to Muang Lat. When we are on the bridge we decide to ask if this is the right direction because Muang Lat is is not in the direction of NA Mao although the map also does not show a road to Muang Lat at all. We are right, with the help of a Vietnamese family we find out we have to keep following the river, over an unsealed path. Then we will automatically cross National Road 217. This is also a very beautiful stretch, again very nice surroundings and a good track to show our cycling skills. The only problem is that the average speed drops dramatically and that it takes a lot of strength to ride this stone lined path that goes up and down all the time. We soon ride alone all struggling on to try to reach NR 217.

When we reach NR 217 everybody has cycled him/herself saddlesor and the legs hurt too. It turns out that it is half past three and it is impossible to reach the border before 5 O'clock because we still have 31 kilometers to go to NA Meo on a undulating road.
During a short stop where we finish our last Vietnamese Dongs we decide that we want to cross the border anyway so we have to move on. The last quarter hour cycling on NR 217 we haven't seen busses or cars heading for NA Meo so on the bicycle again. Then Jeroen sees a big truck in front of a small hut. He jumps of his bicycle and goes inside to ask if they want to bring us to the border. After ten minutes of difficult negotiations that are finished of by Marcel and Frank with an offer in US Dollars we can jump in the back of the truck. Although we are motorised now it still doubtful we will reach the border in time because the truck has problems uphill and makes a stop for trucks that are loading bamboo. At half past four we finally reach NA Meo. We quickly jump of the truck and head for the border.
At the border we have to line up in front of a makeshift office. They tell us that within half a year there will be brandnew offices and a hotel. But until then one has to cross the border into Laos to find a place to sleep. They also tell us that the border at Dien Bien Phu -our first option to cross into Laos- is not open yet and it will take some considerable time to open up because the security situation in the area doesn't allow it.

After this information we have to pass a number desks. First customs were we have to fill in a paper that we have nothing to declare, then the desk of the health department where we have to fill in a paper that we do not have any disease, then passportcontrol to get the exit stamp and after that we have to open our bags to show we do not bring any illegal items out of Vietnam. Kitty is the first one that opens her bags, after the man of the border control grabs a few times in her bag and comes up with a few handful of smelly and dirty clothes and a plastic sign saying Sapa straight on (resulting in a face expression asking "what is that ??" of both Kitty and the borderguards towards the others) the borderguards decide they have seen (smelled ?) enough and we are waved through. So we quickly head on to the Laotian side. There everything goes smoothly also. We have to pay a fine of 2 dollars each person because it is after 5 O'clock and Saturday. After we fill in the papers we are free to go into Laos. And that is quite cheap we tell Kitty and Frank last time at the Cambodian border we had to pay 5 Dollar to leave Laos.
On Laotian soil we ask the borderguards if they know a place were we can spent the night. They bring us to two small bamboo huts where we can sleep with a local family. When we are unloading our bags a small truck stops. It is on his way to Sam Nua, according to Kees and everybody who wants can board the truck. It looks like everybody fancies a Hotel in Sam Nua more then a bed here because all volunteer. We have to pay for the ride in Laotian Kip but Kees has already taken care of that (Kitty wonders how he manages to get enough Kip within 5 minutes, but that secret we are not going to tell) so we put our bikes in the back and head off. We fly towards Sam Nua at least that is how feels like in the back of the truck where it is freezing cold. After 2 hours we reach Sam Nua. We thank the driver for the lift and jump out of the truck. Then we start to hop up and down like frogs trying to defrost. Kitty who could sit in the front and still can walk arranges a hotel and soon we enjoy a hot shower and finally are getting warm. After the shower it is time for dinner and soon everybody tells his/her impression of the day. We all agree that today had all ingredients that make a cycling holiday an adventure !