We As a bicycle holiday should start we started from home by bicycle and bikes the 15 kilometers to Schiphol Airport. Nice to see all those faces turn around when you cycle around the airport. We hoped that we could pack our bicycles in plastic to save weight but were ordered to pack them into cardboard boxes. Due to smart use of Eric's foot we did not have overweight so with a good feeling we sat down to enjoy our last cup of Dutch coffee. We said goodbye to Sjaan and Ruud who came to wave us goodbye and went through passport control. We bought some cycling lecture and went to look for the gate to prepare us for 11 hours of sitting down. We did not sleep although we got some sleeping pills from Liesbeth her work.

After we arrived at Bangkok Airport at 06.30 local time, we passed passport control and went to collect our luggage. Our bicycles appeared through a hole in the wall, together with 5 Thai heads that were curious who would be so stupid to cycle in the tropical heat: we ! We headed of for Don Mung railway station and had 5 minutes before the train would arrive. So we hurried to get the tickets; third class to Buriram close to our bicycles
Luckily there was a lot to eat in the train because we did not had the opportunity to buy anything. After 6 hours sweating (the difference of temperature with Holland is some 20 degrees) we arrived in Buriram. We assembled our bicycles and headed of for the first few meters of our cycling adventure. But not more then 200, because we saw a hotel so time to hit the brakes. First a good cold shower and then into town to get a first impression of Thai live.
We were lucky because of the King's birthday there where 2 parades and it was very lively everywhere. After strolling around for a few hours we had dinner at on of the food stables along the roadsite.

We started the day with intestine noodle soup. After that on our bikes and that was not that easy. We had to ride on the left hand site, the smell and the heat of the city, the motorcycles that speed by you. So after 55 kilometers in Prahkon Chai we decided to call it the day. We found a hotel a little outside town. When we entered the room we discovered a mirror on the ceiling. So the room can also be rented by the hour probably for other things then sleeping.
In the afternoon we looked around town and in the evening we found a Mu Chu restaurant. Our personal servant had a hard time because taking care of two Falang who do not know how to handle the meat is not that easy. Especially if they think they know what they are doing because they did it before at home in Holland.

The day started at half past seven because we did not hear the alarmclock that had to get of at Six. So we jumped out of bed and left without breakfast. The first one and a half hour we cycled through a very quiet area so we could get awake slowly. The road got narrower and narrower which, in combination with the landscape, gave us a rustique feeling. At the horizon we saw the first goal of the day. A temple ruin in Khmer style on top of a, not active, volcano. After a few kilometers we could start the climb. Only 3 kilometers but the steepness in combination with the heat made it far from easy. Along the way we were taken over by many cars. Most Thai waved and put there thumbs up. That probably means something like " A couple of lunatics those Falang". When we reached the top we finally had breakfast and wondered around for a time. Then it was time to enjoy the descend and to continue cycling on the flat surroundings
We decided not to take the mainroads with all their traffic but the smaller ones. Only problem is that there are no signs anymore so we have to ask if we are heading the right way. But as the saying says "one Thai that points the way is not a Thai that points in the right direction, two Thai that point the same way is half a Thai that points in the right direction and three Thais that point the same way is one Thai that points in the right direction. A lot of asking around to be sure we head the right way. But the good thing is that in this way we meet a lot of nice people who all want to know where we coming from and if we enjoy it. At the end of the day we reach Lahan Sai without many problems. We found a good quiet guesthouse and after a very good long and cold shower it is time to look around and discover what this town has to offer. One of the restaurant has a live band playing, so we sat down and had dinner with live Thai music.

Today we took the touristic route again because yesterday we had such a good experience. So at the first junction we left the mainroad. First the road was sealed but soon we found ourselves in a forest on a dirtroad. But no problem a lot of villages and people around so we could ask for directions. After we had be pointed 4 different directions at a crossing we had to conclude that we were lost. So when a Thai with a pickup offered to bring us some 20 kilometers from Ta Praya (our goal of today) we accepted the offer. It would be another 40 kilometers but at kilometer 30 the man told us that we had to follow the road while he was going in the other direction. No problem only that it was getting so hot that Liesbeth her head looked like a tomato. So Eric took the lead and Liesbeth could relax (if that is possible is another question).
In When we arrived in Ta Praya the only hotel was situated between two karaoke bars. So a quiet night was not likely. We also visited the market. Always a nice place to be and to take some nice pictures; Eric who hit his head against the low parasols or a pigs head that is smiling at you.

Ta Praya - Arranyaprahet (50 kilometer)

Hitting the road just after dawn and with the wind blowing in right directing we more or less flew to Arranyaprahet. No wonder we arrived early and we decided to look at the Thai-Cambodian border to see what is awaiting us tomorrow. Near the border was a bordermarket; so gigantic, busy and chaotic that it is hard to imagine. The difference in people some very poor others very rich, people pushing hand carts loaded with merchandise, Chinese in vans on their way to enormous and luxury casinos in Poipet. It took us a while before we had digested all the impressions and went back to Arranyaprahet.
In the evening dinner at the night market and here also many people to look at and of course to be looked at. We ended the day looking at a game of Ta Kro (foot volleyball with a bamboo ball).

At exactly half past seven sharp we arrive at the border. But the border guards tell us to stop and take our bicycles from the road. A few seconds later we understand why. A wave of thousands and thousands of Cambodians flow into Thailand. After half an hour waiting the wave is reduced to some individuals with or without empty hand carts and we are allowed to cross in the border. The paperwork is arranged quickly and we enter Cambodia and wonder what is awaiting us and how is the road ?
The road was threefould nothing. We bounced from one hole into the other and in disbelieve we manage to cycle a few kilometers over the Highway !! This can not be true !? .. Then suddenly we see people working on the road . They throw sand on the road and we even see roadroller. We made a picture to show you the difference. When we have them in electronic form we will put them on the internet, but for now you have to do it without visual prove. Of course this is the beginning of a good, maybe even sealed, road we tell each other. But that is not the case. After some 500 meters the road construction stops and we bounce further. Sometimes even riding along side the official highway because then we can make some speed and even overtake all those cars and buses probably heading for Angkor Wat. Several times tourists take a picture of us from the bus. When we look at each other we know why, we are totally covered in red dust.
After some 20 kilometers we stopped for a cup of real cyclist food: noodlesoup. When we looked in the bowl we saw some unknown pieces of something that is probably meat. We started to eat but soon we were surrounded by a big crowd of young and old Cambodians that wanted to look if we could handle chopsticks. We were lucky that one, very nervous, man could talk some English and help us out. What a difference with Thailand
The last 30 km the road was a little better. We even could discover some intact tarmac on some stretches. The only problem was not the ride into the holes that could be seen everywhere
In We finally arrived in Sisophon, the goal of this day. There was not so much to do but we were happy to spend the evening on the verandah of the hotel after a hard day on the road.

The remainder of the travelogue can be found in the Cambodia page
Eric and Liesbeth.
Click on this link

At the stroke of 6 O'clock on the bike again to head for Thailand. Because Eric is still recovering from his stomach problems and Kees is complaining about aching muscles after his 140 Km sprint of yesterday, we wonder if our legs manage to get us all the way to Trat at some 100 Km from Kho Khong.
We start with a bridge of 2 km long (where cyclist do not have pay toll according to the signs) and then we enjoy the last 10 kilometers in Cambodia. Compared with the border at Poipet (where Eric and Liesbeth entered Cambodia) the border here is more organised and the people look more prosperous (the Weightwatchers really can make money here). It is a nice way to leave the country. After 20 minutes the paperwork is finished and we are in Thailand.
The nice thing about a border like this is that there is a market with very good food, so enjoying breakfast is the first thing we do. After a while we head on a long road with to the left the sea and to the right green mountains that form the border with Cambodia. But then comes a shock: a car is driving straight at us and we realise they drive on the left hand site in Thailand. Striking are the shrimp farms the occupy most of the coastline and the raked up appearance (if that is the proper translation of the Dutch word aangeharkt) of Thailand compared with Cambodia.
Suddenly Trat is within our reach: the road is sealed and Liesbeth does a wonderful job and taking the lead on the biggest part of the ride. So at the end of a long hot day we arrive in Trat and check in the first guesthouse we see. It turn out a good choice because it is has the most clean room we have had sofar.
In the evening we enjoy dinner at the market, and although the stomach of both Eric and Liesbeth still protests against the food we have a good meal. Especially Kees, halfway diner made a phonecall, and found out he has become grandfather !!!

Friday 27 December 2002

For a change we hit the road at six, and what kind of road: a 4 lane one. Not what you call inspiring, but at least it goes fast. Although, it could have gone faster if they had not put all those hills under this road. Another disadvantage is that the road is littered with glass bringing about flat tire No. 3 for Kees. But with the encouragement of the shop owner where we have to stop and the drink he offers the tire is fixed in no time.
Chantaburi the goal of today is in our sight within a few hours but some 10 kilometers before we reach it we decide to leave this boring road and head North on a smaller one, bypassing the city of Chantaburi.
A good choice because we suddenly tour through one of the main fruit producing areas of the country. Everywhere mango-, durian-, jackfruit-, lamyai-, banana-, tamarind trees and some small rubber plantations in between to even further improve the scenery. Exactly at lunchtime we arrive in Ma Kham which means tamarind. (Please do not pronouns it as Mak Ham that means something completely different, we have been told). We see a small restaurant with a cook that looks like she can make delicious food and some costumers who look like they enjoying their food, so we pull the breaks and order lunch.
Now only a hotel for the night. But we are told that there isn’t one in town. Only in Chantaburi some 12 km South… But we took this shortcut to bypass Chantaburi…. In principle we do not go back (where is the person that tells over and over again that principles are there to break was Eric’s comment when he was told he had to torture his body for another hour). So we continue 29 kilometers to the next dust covered town.
On our way to Pong Nam Ron we have to clime numerous hills but that doesn’t stop us. We only stop at a police checkpoint where the cars and truck are checked for drugs and at the last hill where we take a beer and a Yakult to celebrate the end of the trip already. When we sit down the karaoke set is turned on and we sing along with the local hero Peter who performs his hit Sing Microphone (staring Pi Vit or the Thai Elvis as we know him). Just when we want to start the other famous track of the album titled Forty Forty-five (Yes, I like tanew tanew ….. for the readers who are experts in the field of Thai Look Thung karaoke) the VCD stops. A overdose of grease on the VCD so we wash the VCD with some shampoo and everybody is very happy with this miracle. We are invited to join in with some other karaoke songs but we decide to head on to Pong Nam Ron before we are out of breath. But the last few kilometers we fly over the road all three humming “Forty Forty-five. Forty Forty-five.Yes, I like tanew tanew ….. “.
When we reach Pong Nam Ron we find out that the local motel is closed down to be refurbished. So we have a problem.
But then Thai hospitality shows its good side. We are invited to spend the night at home of one of the men that are overseeing the work done. We consider the offer. Or sleep in the local temple or another 10 kilometers to the house of our host. We decide to accept the offer. But first we are being taken for a sightseeing tour around town. First the golf Club and after that the local temple. In the temple we meet one of the monks that invites us for a foot massage. Although the offer is tempting we make an appointment for the next day. With the condition our feet are in now it is better to take a shower first…
When we return back to the motel Liesbeth is invited to take place in the pick-up truck and Kees and Eric cruise behind it. The boys have to bite on their teeth in order to be able to keep track with the car. At the beautiful Thai house of our host we quickly take a shower and then are invited for a nice dinner. After that it is already time to go to sleep. The brothers under one mosquito net and Liesbeth all alone underneath hers. Because that is what the etiquette tells.

We start the day with a rice soup, the first on this trip. After that we thanked our host and headed for the temple to get a foot massage. When we arrived at the temple we discovered our that the monk we had spoken too yesterday apparently had left for another temple and did not contact the others, so we decided to continue or trip also.
The ride went smoothly. Our legs are in such great shape after weeks of training and we are so used to the heat that the 95 kilometers are behind us in no time. The long straight road that we follow all the way and the small dusty villages along the road make that we do not stop so often so we arrive in Wang Nam Yen early. We discover that this town is quite a metropolis (no it is not !!). It consists of the main street with to small ones parallel to it.
The hotel we get is the most expensive one of the whole trip and of course the most dirty one. It has probably to do with the fact that it is more often rented by the hour. Because of that no closets can be found only a horizontal bar build in the wall.
After that we go for a stroll and see lot of people in the streets celebrating New Year all ready. So it is difficult to find a free spot in one of the restaurants. So we take the opportunity to first write the home front on the internet. After dinner, Eric and Liesbeth still without peppers and Kees with so many that he is almost spitting fire, it is time to head for our beds. We tell each other to practice first on the horizontal bar and after that take a good night sleep...... ;-)

When we open our eyes we realize that today is the last day on the road. It is only a short journey to Sa Kaeo, from where we will take the train to Bangkok, so we start late. It is not such an impressive ride. This is due to the rather heavy traffic (the New Year holidays are starting) and because the Thai engineers forgot to put some curves in the road. We must take care that we do not fall asleep on our bicycles.
It all changes when we enter Sa Kaeo. We have to take care because suddenly there are people walking on the road, traffic lights in the streets and shops everywhere. Sa Kaeo is not such a big town but nice enough to enjoy the 3 hours we have left before our train will leave.
As real caffeine junks we start with a good cup of coffee before we head for the market. No souvenirs to be seen, because we are probably the only tourists around, but a lot of delicious food. We have a train journey of 5 hours ahead of us and decide to spend them eating. We stroll along all market stalls and buy fruit and food almost everywhere. After that we cycle the last kilometer of our trip to the train station.
When we arrive at the station we are surprised how well cared for everything looks. No paper, plastic or other garbage lingering around. Beautiful flowers in pots everywhere, all buildings perfectly painted and the toilet brand new and very clean. Later, in Bangkok, we are told that recently all toilets on the train stations are renewed and that the average toilet cost about 1 million Thai Bath (ca 230 000 Euro). So, no wonder that some spare money was available to refurbish the train stations also.
The train takes us through some nice landscape. Fresh green rice paddies, beautiful views and plenty of time to take a good look because every few kilometers there is crossing or an brand new suburb where the train stops. As we approach Bangkok more and more industrial and built up areas appear on the horizon.
Our train is rather empty and because of the lack of people the men that sell refreshments are themselves their best costumers rail tenders. So they are more and more happy every time they pass by. This in contradiction to the outbound Bangkok trains that are very crowded, because everybody is returning to their hometowns to celebrate New Year. Also the train station is full of people returning to their families and we it takes a while before we have maneuvered our bicycles through the crowd. We decide to leave them behind at left luggage and take a taxi to our Bangkok address.
When we arrive at Meow her home we tell a little about our trip but decide to go to bed early because we have problems keeping our eyes open (why we do not know because we had a relaxed day).

Bangkok

These last days we have done a lot of shopping because that seems to be the way Thai people spend their time (and eating of course). That is good because now we not only have obtained a good condition because of all the cycling this holiday and intestines that can cope better with strange food but also presents for our family and friends at home.
We ended our shopping expedition at Khao San Road. Because during our holiday we mainly have been in small towns and villages Khao San Road was rather a shock to us. All those bars, souvenir shops and tourists made use decide call it the day and relax our last evening in Thailand.

Bangkok-Amsterdam

Just before the beginning of the New Year we headed to Don Muang. A friend took us to the Airport with his van. Great that we are been taken care of so good ! We checked in and headed for the plane. Cattle or economy class so that means that Eric with his 2 meters will have some problems with his legs (the gymnastics in the hotel in Wang Nam Yen finally paid off). Luckily for him we were so tired that we fell asleep soon. In Amsterdam everybody was wearing winter jackets and we had only clothes suitable for the tropics. So we were happy to see Sjaan and Ruud with 2 warm coats. They told us that they could bring us home by car, an offer that we immediately accepted when we looked at Eric his bicycle. Some spokes in his rear wheel were broken. The idea to lock his bicycle before checking it in wasn’t such a good idea after all. So we headed home and over a cup of coffee and Dutch fritters (the traditional treat with New Year) we told Sjaan and Ruud about our bicycle adventure …..